Vakifli: The last Armenian village in Turkey
By Talin Suciyan
* Behind a showcase of Turkey’s “tolerance” stands a story of exile and heroism – with an uncertain future
Vakifli, Turkey – Nestled in the shadow of Musa Dagh, Vakifli is the only Armenian village in Turkey where the headman (or village leader) is Armenian, and where Armenians make up the town council. For this reason, Vakifli is frequently used by Turkey to showcase its “tolerance” to the European Union and the rest of the world – as if the existence of the country’s last Armenian village somehow counters Turkey’s anti-Armenian history. Last week, a friend and I traveled to Vakifli on a trip organized by the “Mount Moses Villagers Foundation” in Istanbul. Mount Moses – the legendary Musa Dagh, also known in Armenian as Musa Ler -- has always been an appealing place, with its distinctive dialect, successful organic farming projects, and (interesting for me, at least) the nine votes it cast for Turkey’s Nationalist Movement Party (MHP) in the last elections. Our arrival was confusing; it was hard to believe where we were. The first impression one receives of Vakifli is surreal: a village in the middle of a mountain in Turkey, where the inhabitants are Armenian and where to this day Armenian is spoken on the streets. But as we plumbed the various layers of Vakifli, we began to understand how the village is incorporated into the political, social, and economic context of Turkey. Showcases can be frightening for those who know how fragile they are – and learning the the stories behind the showcase can leave a bitter taste in one’s mouth.
* Those who remained...
Vakifli is a village of people who remained -- who chose not to go. In 1915, the people of the seven villages around Musa Dagh -- Kebusiye, Hidir Bek, Bityas, Yogunoluk, Hablak, and Yezur -- heard what had been happening to their fellow Armenians in other parts of Anatolia, and decided to save their lives by ascending the mountain. Altogether around 4,500 people went up the Mountain of Moses, and lived there for almost two months. At last, a French ship rescued them and brought them to Port Said in Egypt. (The story was made famous in Franz Werfel’s novel, The Forty Days of Musa Dagh; Werfel himself admitted that he had seized on the number “40” not for its historicity, but for its biblical resonance.) The Armenians from Mount Moses lived in Egypt for four years, and afterwards went back to their villages; at the time, the Hatay or Iskenderun region was under the control of France. The decision to return their homeland was not the end of decision-making for the Musa Dagh Armenians, however. In 1939 the region was incorporated into Turkey through a referendum, and the Armenians were left to decide, once again, whether they would remain or leave. One group decided to depart, and built a village similar to Vakifli in Lebanon, known as Aynjar. The ones who chose to remain gathered in a single village, which is today’s Vakifli. The Armenians of Mount Moses commemorated their “40 days” of struggle and survival, as well as their 18 lost comrades, every year up to the 1980s. They also raised a monument above the 18 graves, symbolizing the ship which rescued them. Yet, after the coup d’etat of 1980, the monument was destroyed, along with the graves. But unlike the monuments, memories proved more indestructible, and the history behind Musa Dagh became etched even deeper in the popular imagination. The 1950s saw relations between Armenian Patriarchate of Istanbul and the village became grew closer. The children of the village, mostly its boys, are sent to Istanbul’s Sourp Khatch Tibrevank high school. In the meantime, emigration continued, mostly to the West -- to Europe and the U.S. -- and those children who were sent to Istanbul mostly remained there. As a result, the village population decreased to a great extent. A 1965 population census listed 1,000 Armenians living in the region, 120 of them from Vakifli village. Today, including the lower districts, there are 200 Armenians altogether. Thought the village has around 1,500 acres of land, only 50 acres belong to the villagers. Another 50 acres is under the control of the General Directorate of Foundations, and the rest has become the property of people from the neighboring villages. In Hatay and its environs today one can find Alevits, Arab Christians (both Orthodox and Catholic), Armenians, Jews, Afghans, Turcoman, and of course Turks. One of the biggest villages of the seven original Armenian strongholds, Yogunoluk, which was densely populated by Armenians in the 1920s, is today a Turcoman village. Fulya Dogruel, who wrote a book about Hatay, says that after 1915, “in order to balance the ethnic composition, Turcoman people were settled in the area.” As I mentioned, Vakifli gave nine votes to Turkey’s ultra-nationalist MHP (Nationalist Movement Party) in the last election. It was not difficult to identify the MHP electorate in Vakifli’s village cafe. As we traveled around the villages with other tourists, we looked for stones, inscriptions on the walls – anything to relate ourselves to the region’s history. Suddenly, we would see a group gathered, photographing one small stone on a building edifice; or people squeezing themselves to view a stone at the back of a fountain. What they had discovered were the “fossils” of the Armenian past. But the most striking thing to witness in this regard was the mosque built on top of a church. The huge arches of a distinctly Armenian church carried a mosque with aluminum carpentry on its windows. The children of the village surrounded us, aware that something was strange about us, since we were visitors to the “lower floor” and not the “upper floor.” The children said: “The owners of this village went, and left their places for us to live in.” On display in one of the seven villages of Musa Dagh, Hidir Bey, is a photograph of the village taken in 1923 that was a present from the Gendarmerie City Commandership. It made a nice gift, to tell the truth. But one wonders what today’s villagers in Hidir Bey imagine when they look at that photograph. In Hidir Bey once – up to 1974 -- there stood an Orthodox church or monastery. But in 1974, in the wake of the Cyprus crisis, it was destroyed in a single night. That was the way the Cyprus crisis was received in the Hatay region: as fuel for resurgent ethnic hatred.
* The future of the village
We met some young Armenians of Vakifli to talk about their future plans and the future of the village. Today, outside of Vakifli, there is only one Armenian family living in Bityas Village. Can Capar is from Bityas; he is 16 years old, and he said, “I’ll stay here until the end of my life.” But he’s the only one to say so -- and most probably he thinks this way because life has not yet challenged his idealism. Linda Karakus, 22, lived abroad for a while and wants to do so again; and if that happens she only wants to come back when she retires, or during summers. Hayko Kisadur, 23, studies in Istanbul and wants to go abroad too. He said, “Yes, here is the only Armenian village in Turkey; it is an honor for us; but it is not enough.” Indra, who is 27, still lives in the village, and works in Samandag (the central municipal town), says she is doing fine, but “We are at the same point all the time.” They all attest that it has been a privilege to have grown up in Vakifli, that they learned a lot from the village, that no one in the big cities believes that they have come from these villages. But this pride turns a little sour when it comes to their future plans. When I ask, “What do you think Vakifli will be like 50 years from now?” they all answer: “Will there be any Vakifli in 50 years?” Of course, when one thinks how difficult it is to find a job even in the big cities of Turkey, one cannot blame these young people for their decision. The local dialect spoken in the village is truly fascinating: Armenian mixed with Arabic sounds and Turkish words. If no one starts recording and researching the structure of this dialect, it will soon be lost forever. The younger generation understands it, but rarely answers in the same language. For the most part, they know only a little of the distinctive dialect.
* Harisa for all
The most festive days in the village come during the second week of August, when Sourp Asdvadzadzin – the Feast of the Assumption of the Holy Mother-of-God -- is celebrated and the grapes are blessed. Many former villagers who now live elsewhere in the world return to the village during these days to see relatives, and tourists pour in from far and wide to take part in the celebrations. On Saturday night, the Armenian Patriarch of Turkey, Archbishop Mesrob Mutafyan, came to Mount Moses, and villagers and visitors alike gathered in the old school garden. Drums and horns were at the ready, the “Rainbow Choir” of local youth sang Armenian songs, and the whole village danced. Simultaneously, in the church garden, 150 kilograms of meat and 70 kilograms of wheat started to cook in large kettles. The result would eventually be harisa -- the prescribed meal for the day after -- but to get there it would have to cook through the night. On Sunday morning, before a large crowd, Patriarch Mesrob conducted the age-old ceremony. First he blessed the grapes, and then the harisa. The harisa was distributed throughout the crowd of people – down to the last kernel of wheat. As I watched, I wondered what the other people were thinking -- especially the ones who arrived here as visitors from abroad. So I started to ask how they felt, what they had expected, and what they ultimately found. The first to answer was Hayk Karakiz, originally from Istanbul, who has been living in Holland for 42 years. “I found more than I expected,” he said. “I’m impressed by the unity of the society here. The future of this village is the future of all Armenians in Turkey. One should pay extra attention to this village.” Ari Yakar is also from Istanbul, and has been living in Canada for 17 years. He too found more than he expected. “I find it very impressive to see people coming here from all over the world. The places we saw were very interesting -- especially the church with the mosque on top. I definitely want to come here again.” There were Armenians from Aleppo present, too. Aleppo is 60 kilometers away from Hatay, and since there is no visa problem, it is easy to travel from one side to the other. George Tertsagyan’s mother has not been to Mount Moses for 40 years, but they have relatives still living in the village. “We expected to see more Armenian people in the village. The ‘soul’ still lives, but the people are dispersed. I went to the celebrations of people from Musa Dagh in Armenia, but it was totally different. Nonetheless, we want to come here with a bigger group next year.”
* Something to do for Vakifli
Avedis Demirci is one of the oldest people in town. There is some dispute about his actual birth date; but in any event, he went up Musa Dagh with his parents while he was a baby, then lived in Port Said for four years, and later came back to Vakifli. He speaks very good Armenian, Ottoman, Arabic, and French. He has also learned Turkish. Araksi Kadiyan is 90, and has had 10 children. But she lost four of her children due of financial problems and malnutrition during the Second World War, when her husband was inducted into military for a second time -- like all the other male non-Muslims between the ages of 25 and 45. She has a house overlook the valley, and despite all that she has gone through, she lives happily with her daughter and other children, who visit during the summer. Araksi sings all the old local songs, one after the other, without getting tired. I feel myself lucky to have listened to her. Ohannes Mardiryan is 62, and had a photography workshop in the 1960s in Iskenderun. Though there was no electricity at the time, he somehow managed to show the first pornographic movie in Yezur village. He explains by saying, “I am eager to learn anything new.” It wasn’t the last time, either: Ohannes eventually brought modern poultry farming techniques to his village. As I reflect on the faces and voices and experiences of my sojourn, it strikes me how unfair it would be to treat Vakifli only as a showcase for Turkey. To have an Armenian-populated village standing 1,200 kilometers from Istanbul is living proof – if any were needed -- that the country’s official ideology cannot persuade people. To put it differently, the very existence of Vakifli is a rebuke to Turkey’s official, incessantly repeated mythology about itself. However, one can hardly expect the younger generation to dedicate their lives to the village for this reason alone. Therefore, in order to sustain its future, I think all Armenians, all over the world -- including Armenians in Turkey and Armenia -- should have something to say, and something to do, for Vakifli. And if Turkey truly wants to benefit from Vakifli’s distinctive claim to fame in the years to come – even if only as a “showcase” -- it could encourage the local Armenians to remain in their villages, by enabling them to make full use of their opportunities in a town where the headman is an Armenian, and where Armenians make up the village council.
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