tuning your car yourself

[karoaper]

I've recently started to teach myself how to tune and repair my car myself. It's not a rocket science and I think being able to do small things, like change breaks, flush/replace radiator, etc is a very useful and gratifying skill.

I've got a Honda Accord '91.
I've bought the factory manual from Honda and the Haynes Repair Manual.
So far, I've changed the spark plugs and flushed the radiator. I had no idea how such a small and cheap tune-up as changing the spark plugs can affect the car's performance so much. Next I need to inspect the timing belt and change the idle.

Just wondering if others here tune their own cars. I'm oviously a newbie so it'd be nice if someone here was experienced.

[Sip]

I don't know much about Hondas but if yours has a distributor, then you also want to change the distributor cap and rotor. They are cheap and usually very easy to change and they'll make a HUGE difference on an old car like this. Also, I hope you've set your spark plug gaps correctly. At the same time, if you don't mind the additional $20-$30, swap those old spark plug wires with some good new ones too. Again, this is all assuming yours has a distributor and is not coil-on-plug or something else. An easy way to tell is if you have spark plug wires going to each plug, the other end of those all end up at the distributor cap. The rotor is the spining tip under the cap that distributes the spark to each plug.

As far as me working on my cars, yah I do pretty much all maintenance and any repair that doesn't need fancy equipment (like an engine or transmissin lift/jack). If it can be done in a home garage, I do it. My main expertise is on Chevy S10's (83 up to 2005) since I've had both the old S10 blazer and now a 2001 ZR2 blazer. Also, I have recently learned a lot about Jeep TJ's (wranglers) since I have a 2003 Rubicon. I've been doing a lot of work on that as well.

Edit: One more thing that is often overlooked is the fuel filter. It is amazing how much those get clogged after long term use. Those are also often very cheap and "easy" to change but if yours hasn't been touched since 91, then those bolts aren't going to come off. Again, not sure where the fuel filter is on the Hondas (or if there is one) but if it has one, and you haven't changed it recently, then change it!

[winoman]

I work (a bit) on my old Mustang - in fact I plan to adjust the valves and replace both valve gaskets this weekend or next - and I recently replaced my battery wiring (with original Ford stuff - replacing some of the original wiring as well as some non-authentic wiring that had been put in) and I replaced the condenser in my distributor (woulnd't start until I did so...and a very frustrating triasl and error to get to that point) and also replaced my air filter (as easy as it gets - but yeah definatley notice the difference!)...and yeah supose I should check the fuel filter...timing seems OK - I have the tools but have never done it...and outside of changing the oil once in a while or a light bulb (and of course cleaning and detailing!) I basically don't do any work on my newer vehicals... - nope can't even think of going there...

[karoaper]

I have a question. My little Honda has a problem with misfiring. The new plugs helped, but everynow and then, the idle drops to extremely low like 400-500 and the engine misfires a lot. Also, sometimes I get this weird thing, where the idle jumps between 1000 and 1500. Weird. I'm thinking the timing belt might need to be changed. I'll also change the plug wires and the distributor. I hope that will help. But any ideas as to what could be the problem would help.

[Sip]

Once you take care of your spark, problems like that usually have 2 reasons:

1. A bad sensor somewhere
2. Fuel delivery issues

As far as #2, the fuel filter would be #1 suspect as it might hinder fuel delivery.

As far as the sensors, it could be oxygen sensor(s), TPS (throttle position sensor not the TPS report ), or it could be the idle air control valve. One thing you might want to do is to take off the throttle body (where the air enters into the engine) if you can, and spray it down with some sort of carburator or break cleaner spray (available from any auto parts store).

Once you clean those plates and moving parts, put it back together as dirt buildup could make those plates stick.

With an old car like this, O2 sensors could definitely go bad but it usually won't be just idle but missfires accross the band. Then again, I don't even know if a 91 Honda would have an O2 sensor

[skhara]

I rotate my tires. That's about it.

Speaking of which, its probably about time that I do that.

Oh, and I also drive it outside of the garage during rain, so it washes.

[karoaper]

Once you take care of your spark, problems like that usually have 2 reasons:

1. A bad sensor somewhere
2. Fuel delivery issues

As far as #2, the fuel filter would be #1 suspect as it might hinder fuel delivery.

As far as the sensors, it could be oxygen sensor(s), TPS (throttle position sensor not the TPS report ), or it could be the idle air control valve. One thing you might want to do is to take off the throttle body (where the air enters into the engine) if you can, and spray it down with some sort of carburator or break cleaner spray (available from any auto parts store).

Once you clean those plates and moving parts, put it back together as dirt buildup could make those plates stick.

With an old car like this, O2 sensors could definitely go bad but it usually won't be just idle but missfires accross the band. Then again, I don't even know if a 91 Honda would have an O2 sensor

I appreciate the help. I'll check into all these places.

[karoaper]

I rotate my tires. That's about it.

Speaking of which, its probably about time that I do that.

Oh, and I also drive it outside of the garage during rain, so it washes.

You're in Wisconsin. With all the crap they put on the road, cleaning the car often is a must. Can you say "jang"? jang on the doors, jang on the engine, avtot shutov darnalu a mi mets jangi ktor anivneri vra.

[Sip]

I got a funny story about that washing business So every since the last time I changed the diff fluids (front and back) on my Jeep, the rear diff had a very slow leak. I'd get about 1 or 2 drops per night on the floor from under the differential cover. I guess I hadn't sealed the diff cover well enough (I use RTV silicone).

Anyway, it was like that for a few months until on one of the offroading trips, I had to go through a bunch of mud which stuck like clay to everything. To make a long story short, basically I decided not to clean off the mud around that diff! And sure enough, it stopped the leak

Well, a few months later the mud had all dried up and would crack and chunks of it would fall away ... but by that time it was time again to redo the fluids anyway. This time it seems to be sealed good

[1womanARMY]

I drive my car to the dealer ALL BY MYSELF!
(does that count? )